Food (Almost) Like Nana Used To Make: Criolla Kitchen in San Francisco

Being from the South, there is a special place in my heart for good ‘ol down home cooking like my Nana used to make. Low calorie and sugar-free cookin’ were definitely not on the menu when it came to feeding her family. Cholesterol worries aside, there’s something satisfying about sitting down with friends and family for some good conversation and heaping platefuls of delicious grits, fried chicken, hush puppies, and red beans and rice.

Now, if you were thinking Criolla Kitchen is serving food like Nana used to make, or even some amazing Creole cuisine that you’ve wanted to try from New Orleans, you’d be mistaken. I’ll always make a special trip to New Orleans just to have some of the gumbo and fried oysters at the ACME Oyster House in the French Quarter. But, chef Randy Lewis does a nice job of bringing down-home Southern favorites to the Bay Area in the space formerly occupied by Bagdad Café at the corner of Market and Sanchez Streets. This corner hot spot thankfully has been busy every time that I have visited both alone and with friends for brunch and dinner. Outdoor seating makes for some fun people watching, although when the wind picks up, you’ll be glad to grab a table indoors.

A few fresh coats of paint, some exposed brick walls, industrial lighting, stainless steel touches here and there, and new art gives the place a much more upscale feel, although having an extra bathroom would be nice. I also didn’t like having to walk past all the servers and hectic kitchen to get to the lone bathroom. With servers rushing back and forth, I thought I might be knocked over a couple of times while waiting in line.

Service at Criolla Kitchen is fast and courteous, frankly, some of the best I’ve had in quite a long time. It’s nice to be served with a smile from someone who only cares that you are there and knows the intricacies of the menu. Chef Lewis’s menu, it should be noted, changes frequently, with a creative mix of Southern favorites. According to a message on the menu “you will taste Africa, and Puerto Rico, and Louisiana where I’m from; and Portugal and Cuba, and San Francisco where we share a bounty of ingredients like no other place on earth.’” So, I was really looking forward to trying some of Chef Lewis’s bounty.

You can’t really screw up a shrimp po’boy very easily, and the one I tried was served on delicious French bread with tomatoes, lettuce, and a side green salad ($10.90). The shrimp were cooked to perfection and served with a side of New Orleans remoulade. I should have ordered an extra sandwich to go, perhaps of the catfish or fried oyster variety ($10.90 each). Fried chicken and waffles ($11.90) are on the menu for both brunch and dinner, with the pieces of moist and tender chicken fried with a golden crust of slightly spicy goodness. For whatever reason, the two pieces of chicken were smaller for brunch, and a lot bigger at dinner. The server was nice enough to accommodate my request for a breast and a leg when I ordered. The accompanying buttery waffles were served with Vermont maple syrup and some of the best maple butter I’ve ever tasted. In addition to the original waffle, the Johnny-cake variety was also an intriguing choice, with a bit more texture with each bite. Accompanying cane-sugar butter and maple syrup were simply outstanding and an iced chicory coffee helped wash everything down.

At dinner, an accompanying side salad was a waste of plate space, not that it was bad mind you, but didn’t really add anything to the meal. The red beans and rice were a disappointment, in desperate need of more seasoning. Further disappointment came from the shrimp-stuffed hush puppies with bread and butter pickle remoulade ($5.90) No matter how much butter or remoulade slathered on, they remained too dry to enjoy despite having a delicious crunchy outer shell.

To stuffed for dessert, I skipped the bread pudding with Bourbon sauce and key lime pie. Tempting my tummy was the pecan pie listed on the menu, but alas it was a menu misprint and was no longer being served. Hopefully, they’ll actually have some for my next visit.

Criolla Kitchen has a special Southern hospitality that makes it a marvelous addition to the neighborhood. With excellent service, decent cuisine, and “hot spot” attitude, it’s worth a visit.